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I finally come home today! This morning I learned that Rashida, the child I’m still trying to figure out how to steal, is actually named Nasiha … sooo good thing I’ve been calling her the wrong name for the past month. She definitely knew something was up today, she clung to me more than usual and when we were going to leave she fell asleep in my arms. While that was probably the easiest way to slip out, but at the same time it kills me that she woke up and I wasn’t there. Sigh. I gave the director my address to give to her mother, so hopefully I’ll hear from her. It’s a long shot.

I’m so excited to be coming home! Our flight isn’t until 11 something and we’re leaving around 7, but I’m still eagerly anticipating my arrival. I’ll be back in America around 630 am tomorrow!

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I can’t believe I’m already in my final week! On Monday, we went back to the scary Accra market in the midst of running errands. We have some left over money and wanted to buy more fun things for the day care, so Cana, Kimberly, and I ventured out. I thought after tackling the second largest market in Africa I’d be able to handle this one. False. For whatever reason, people in the Accra market like to touch me. A lot. I am not okay with this. Plus, as I was walking an older Ghanian man came up beside me, all up in my face, yelling at me in Twi. Clearly I did not understand him, so eventually started yelling “learning to speak Twi! Learn the language of Ghana!” literally two inches from my face. Newsflash: Twi is not the language of Ghana. It’s the language of the Akan people, which constitute only one of the ethnic groups. Asshole.  Needless to say, I didn’t enjoy this trip any more than the last one, and I have every intention of avoiding this market forever.

Tuesday we went back to the day care. I’m telling you, I have some serious withdrawals over the weekend when I don’t see these kids. It was a pretty standard day – I walked in, Rashida permanently attached herself to me and we spent the morning together. I had an awesome moment later on in the day with the teacher in our classroom, though. Our teacher is TOUGH. She yells a lot (doesn’t hit the kids as much as one of the others), and doesn’t take any bullshit. But I have to say, she trusts us. Along with my group, there’s a group of 3 Germans that work at the day care, but they’ve been here something like 9 months. From what I’ve gathered, they’re legitimately learning how to teach in these types of “schools.” One girl in particular has been in our classroom a lot lately, and Tuesday morning our teacher handed the reins over to the German girl. Big mistake. She immediately lost control of the kids, and attempted to regain it by singing the rhymes we sing almost every morning … except she didn’t know the words. She was seriously struggling. While that was going on, Kimberly and I started humming our favorite little tune, a depressing song about a butterfly. It goes like this: 

“Butterfly, butterfly
(Butterfly, butterfly)
Where do you come from?
(Where do you come from?)
I know not.
(I know not.)
I ask not.
(I ask not.)
I never had a home
(I never had a home)”

 So basically it’s super depressing, but for whatever the kids love it. Anyway, the teacher heard us singing it and told the German girl to stop and had us lead the class. It was a very legit moment, and they actually listened to us! It never ceases to amaze me that although I spend the majority of the day wanting to slap these children, I still want them to like me and listen to me. They’re just too cute not to love.

After nap, shower, class, etc., Britney, Cana, Kimberly and I decided that we didn’t want to sit around, so we hopped in a cab and headed to Osu- a different section of Accra. We went to an awesome chicken restaurant called Papaye, then got gelato at our new favorite place. It wasn’t anything fancy, but considering I hate talking to strangers, I’m pretty proud that I’m cool with hopping in a cab in a different country and doing my own thing. Not alone, I’m not trying to get kidnapped. But with a couple people 

Finally on Wednesday we got to go to the beach! I have picture but I’m too lazy to upload them now, so maybe I’ll do that later. After class we donned our bathing suits, and Kimberly, Cana, Teresa, Farouk and I got in the van with Mr. Kwame (our driver). Edmund and Mr. Kwame had both said that the beach was “dirty,” so I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. When we got there, I wasn’t all that surprised. Clearly neither of them had ever been to Seaside. There was a little trash on the beach but for the most part it felt just like beaches at home, only with less actual sand. There were a bunch of cool tables with chairs and benches and umbrellas, so we plopped ourselves down and read for a little bit. Soon after, we were assaulted by men trying to sell us bracelets and paintings and stools and artifacts and everything that people try to sell me at the art market. I swear, everywhere you go someone is trying to sell you something. They’re smart about it, too. As we were reading a couple guys on horseback rode up offering rides down the beach. Want to ride the horse? 10 Ghana cedis. Want to take a picture on the horse? 2 Ghana cedis. Walking down the beach we saw a man with a snake who told us to come pet it. Want a picture? 2 Ghana cedis. Everything costs money here. It may even be worse than home. All in all, it was super nice to be at the beach. We relaxed and took a walk, got some work done and had a great day.

Thursday we didn’t go to the day care in the morning. Sad day. It was raining, so it was decided that we wouldn’t go because it’s literally the most frustrating thing to have to deal with ALL those children being inside. Instead, we slept in a little then went to check out the Balme Library (equivalent of the ZSR) and the bookstore! The other day we got our final paper assignment, and Dr. D basically told me he wants me to do something involving Ghanian literature. So at the store I got a book about a woman struggling to have children and all that, and I plan to do a literary analysis of it as well as equating it to the Street Girls who sell things on the side of the road to support their children. Basically it’s a research paper relating the book to the struggles of women in contemporary Ghanian culture. I’m a big nerd, so I’m excited. After the bookstore we checked out the library, which was really cool. It’s gorgeous in a very unique way, and while I’d love to study for my test there, it doesn’t have air conditioning. So that’s a no go. After looking around the library, I went outside and sat on the steps to wait for everyone else to come out. While I was sitting, a little stray doggie trotted right up to me. She was adorable!! She was also super dirty, but I’m so excited I finally do to play with a puppy. There’s about a million stray dogs running around and I’ve been tempted to play with them since I’ve been here so this was a shining moment for me. When we got up to leave, she followed me part of the way home. Broke my heart.

Friday we went to class, then had another field trip! We all got to go to the Kwame Nkrumah Museum. He was the first president of Ghana, so it’s kind of a big deal. The museum itself, however, was a little bit crappy. It basically consisted of one room and lots of pictures. Not much stuff. Outside we got to see his mausoleum            , so that was cool. I think I would have enjoyed it a lot more if our tour guide wasn’t an ass. When we first got there, he told us he wanted to give us Ghanian names – names based on which day of the week you were born. When he asked me I told him I didn’t know, he said he’ll just call me Obroni. Which is the word for white people. I’m not retarded, I know what that means – so I said no. And he just laughed and continued to call me Obroni. I was not amused. Then, throughout the “tour” he kept talking about all the Africans who were killed by the CIA during the Cold War. Whatever, sucks to be a Communist.

Friday night Kimberly, Cana and I all went back to Osu to get more gelato. I have to say, these Africans have their gelato figured out. It is DELICIOUS. It was a lovely “last Friday in Ghana” celebration.

Saturday we had the pleasure of having lunch at a friend of Dr. D’s house. The family was lovely, and the food was great. There were about 12 of us in total, including the rest of the family, and we got to talk about school, and Ghana and America and a whole bunch of cool things. That family is SMART. One daughter just got her PhD for Robotics/ Artificial Intelligence and her husband is a Civil Engineer. Her younger brother is currently studying at the University of Ghana in Kumasi, majoring in Aeronautical Engineering. No big deal. It was nice to be within the confines of a house and with a family. It made me really miss my family, though (love you guys!).

Today begins the ordeal of studying. Our final is on Tuesday, Wednesday we’re probably going to have a big goodbye dinner, Thursday morning we go to the day care and about 8pm on Thursday night we head to the airport to go home! I can’t believe my trip is almost over, but I’m looking forward to coming home.

More pictures to come!

A view at the castle at Cape Coast

A view at the castle at Cape Coast

A view from the bridge

A view from the bridge

The Canopy Walk at Kakum National Park! Pretty intense, huh?

The Canopy Walk at Kakum National Park! Pretty intense, huh?

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Getting Emotional

Since we’ve been pretty bad about proper planning and agreement over here, we didn’t end up going out on Tuesday night. Teresa and I did scour the stores of the area around the University with Edmund, in hopes of finding her a not too expensive bottle of flavored vodka, but we failed at that too. Who knew everything was expensive around here? It turned out to be an early night, but that was all well and good.

On Wednesday, we went to class with high hopes to go to the Accra Zoo later in the afternoon. For those of you that are not aware, I absolutely love zoos. I’m a child in that respect. Most people grow out of them or realize that their treatment of animals is sub-par, but frankly I think zoos are the most wonderful place on earth. Right behind Disney World. Regardless, my hopes and dreams were dashed. Go figure that they JUST so happen to be doing construction on the zoo to make it even better, so it was closed. And I won’t even be able to see the improvements. Sad but true. After a few attempts at other plans – a museum, some people possible getting their hair done, exploring Osu – tensions mounted and things got rough. It was one of those moments where 6 girls’ personalities just weren’t meshing, and some people (me) got upset. Emotional moment number 1. It was one of those moments, though, that I realized how close I’m getting to these girls despite our differences. After a walk to cool off, Teresa, Katie, and I had Edmund take us to East Legon (by the airport) to an American café! Seriously, just what I needed. I had a bleu cheese and avocado burger with French fries and ice in my water. Oh, how I’ve missed ice. If that doesn’t make sense, it’s because we’re basically forbidden to drink tap water here because it’ll screw with our systems and make us sick, and ice is made with tap water. Also, I have to use a water bottle to brush my teeth. And lettuce, raw vegetables (i.e.. salad) and fruits without a thick rind are out of the question. Rinsed with tap water. But today I had my ice, and life was good. After lunch we decided to just drive around and have Edmund show us parts of Accra we hadn’t seen before. It was awesome, and we ended up at a great gelato place as well. Delicious. After a significant amount of traffic, standard in Accra, we headed back home. The group worked out our issues, and we all lived happily ever after.

Thursday was back at the day care, and on the way there we witnessed the most foreboding sight possibly on a Tuesday or Thursday morning: rain clouds. Rain means the 100+ kids have to be corralled inside for the entire day, which is basically a death sentence for all those trying to keep things calm and orderly. Sure enough, a few minutes after getting there, the rain started to fall. But before that, Rashida found me. No surprise there. I have to admit I was a bit peeved with her after her throwing rocks incidents the other day, but who can resist that cute little face? Certainly not me. For the entire morning she was attached to me, but at least behaving. When I was needed to break up a fight or discipline children (about every 5 minutes or so), I would plop her down on the wall that serves as a railing and go off and take care of my business. She’d wait patiently until I walked back over, when she would promptly throw herself into my arms. It was one of those days where keeping the kids under control became a desperate affair. Before class, we were told to keep them out of the rooms (giving them a sidewalk about as wide and long as a hallway in your house to play on). Clearly, all they wanted to do was go in the rooms, especially one problematic group of little boys. After 20 minutes or so of wreaking havoc and not listen, I stepped in. Cue me grabbing each boy by the collar and placing him, not so gently, outside the door in a pile. It sounds dangerous but whatever, they got tangled up which gave me enough time to shut the door. Trust me, the women who actually work there are a lot less gentle than that. In the midst of the insanity, Rashida was being cuter than ever. She learned to say my name in the most ADORABLE little voice, even though she can’t really pronounce it. The “rl” sound trips up most Ghanians. After a morning of cuteness, I took Rashida to her classroom and headed to the one I volunteer in. The children in class were absolutely awful for the most part. There was choking, punching, and wrestling involved, but towards the end of the day we got them to identify the pictures on the wall and sing songs with us; definitely a moral victory. At one point, Rashida wandered her way into my classroom, but clearly she did not belong there nor did I have the time to deal with it. So I shooed her out, and Katie had to drag her away. I had never seen Rashida actually shed a tear, until this moment. With tears streaming down her face she kept crying “Carly, Carly” and ran to Teresa and cried till she fell asleep. Seriously, this is traumatizing stuff for me. It’s probably going to haunt me for the rest of my life. Emotional moment number 2.

After day care, lunch, a satisfying nap, class and a dinner of Pringles and a banana, it was time to get ready to ACTUALLY go out! We planned to go to Bella Roma for real this time, and by 830 ish we were out the door. Yes, that’s early, but we were told by the manager that if we get there before 8 we’d get in free, and that was the most important part. However, Edmund is a diva and it took him forever to get ready. Katie, Kimberly, Farouk and I hopped in a cab and took the LONGEST possible route to Osu. Edmund drove the other 3, such a cop out. When we got there, the other 4 were waiting inside to tell us the club was closed tonight. And so began the adventure. We left Bella Roma, and since no one had really eaten anything, we decided to get some food. Walking down the street in club clothes, we garnered a lot of unwanted attention, but it was vaguely hilarious. We had a delicious and inexpensive meal at some chicken place, and headed out again. I’m not quite sure where we were going when a man in his car slowed down and drove beside us on the street. Yup, it’s as creepy as it sounds, but apparently it’s not a big deal in Accra. Edmund struck up a friendship with the creeper, who wanted to go out with us that night. Quite in fact, Edmund asked if anyone wanted to get in the CAR with him and DRIVE somewhere. Stranger danger 101. That didn’t happen, but he did direct us to a bar we could go to while we waited for the club, Aphrodisiac, to open up. It ended up being a cool little place with a live band and super expensive drinks, but oh well. There were also a lot of middle-aged white men, a few Europeans, and a couple women I can only assume were prostitutes. It was a nice mix. We had some drinks, danced a little, and then headed out once more to actually try to get to a club. Katie and Farouk decided to go home, so it was Edmund and the rest of the girls. We piled into his car and drove around until we found it. This was my first club experience, and I have to say it was interesting. Once we were inside, we were informed that things didn’t pick up in this club until about 2am…it was 12. So we sat on a couch for a little while, admiring the other like 10 people that were there at this hour. After some coaxing we danced, and about an hour later we headed home. It wasn’t a crazy night, but it was fun to get out and experience some new things. Plus, we had to be in the van by 7am the next morning to hit the road.

 Which leads to Friday, and our trip to Cape Coast! Definitely a super cool part of my stay in Ghana. We all slept for most of the ride, but as we got closer I started to wake up, and glimpsed the Atlantic Ocean. That was a mind-boggling moment. There I was, thousands of miles from home on a different continent, looking at the same ocean I’ve visited almost every summer for a good portion of my life. Similar, yet oh so different. Whereas I spend my beach visit laying out on the beach or frolicking through the waves, I watched groups of men haul huge fishing nets out of the rough surf. It was a moment where I realized that my life here (for a month) and my life at home exist in two entirely different worlds. The first stop was to Kakum National Park, a rainforest where we’d be doing our canopy walk. Yeah, it’s as cool as it sounds. We hiked up the mountain, mixed in with a large field trip group, and about 10 minutes and 2,000 gallons of sweat later we were at the top. The guide informed us that wild elephants and various types of monkeys live in the forest, but sadly the odds of us seeing them were slim to none. Still, I feel like I get points for at least being SOMEWHAT close to an elephant while in Africa. After this info, we lined up and waiting in the shelter-looking thing to start the walk. I’m not entirely sure what I expected when I heard “canopy walk”, but I’m pretty sure I had some Indiana Jones-like images flashing through my mind. Interestingly enough, I wasn’t that far off. Sitting in the shack thing I found myself looking at the “bridge”: metal ladders, covered with wooden boards, with rope nets/railings on either side. Sounds safe, right? Don’t worry; they assured us they test the bridges every morning. I don’t buy that for a second, but I hopped right on anyway. The walk consisted of 7 of these bridges, with platforms attached to trees between them, roughly 500 ft above the rainforest floor. The view was AMAZING and it was a crazy experience. I took a few pictures, but mainly I was concerned with making it from point A to point B. Also, there are no pictures of me actually on the bridge, but that’s for the best. There’s no need to document the gross level of sweatiness I achieved that day. But I was there, and I did it. Each bridge was progressively less sturdy than the last, leading me to believe these “bridge checkers” get lazy and say fuck it when they get to bridge 5. By the 6th, I was pretty much fearing for my life. But really, it was one of the most amazing experiences I’ve had thus far in my life.

Once the 5 of us who did the canopy walk met up with the rest of the group, we headed to lunch at the University of Ghana at Cape Coast. After a decent meal and time to dry off, we piled back into the van to the Castle of Cape Coast, a former castle used as a European trading post and eventually a port for slaves. This was truly a somber and humbling experience. Sitting right above the water, the view was beautiful. There’s something ironic about that, though. This was a place where such monstrosities occurred, but a beautiful, light blue sky and a gorgeous, dark blue ocean framed it. Yet those who passed through the castle saw neither. They were kept in dungeons and cells, and lead onto the boats through tunnels, never seeing the light of day. When we walked inside, we were directed to a museum, which told the story of the Ghanian and West African people and explained the history of the slave trade. After that, we were given a guided tour. We were literally led through the dungeons, and were told about the hundreds of people that were jammed into small rooms with little light and little food for 2 or 3 months. It was appalling. Similarly, we were actually taken into a condemned cell, a place that people were literally sent to die. We walked through the gates that led to the sea, through the “Door of No Return,” where slaves were herded on to ships bound for a life of cruelty. It’s difficult to explain what I saw and what I thought while I was there, but I have to say I’m glad we did it.

Yesterday was a pampering day – Katie and I went to the mall, got pedicures (and a manicure for me), walked around, and had some potent drinks at a lovely bar. The other girls went to the salon for hair/nails as well, and we all met up at the mall for dinner. Today, we had planned to go to the beach, but we got about halfway to where we were supposed to catch the local public transportation (called the Tro-Tro), and it started POURING. Picture included. Ghana during the rainy season can be difficult at times. 

Only 12 days till I’m home!

The “Door of No Return” at Cape Coast - a castle used during the slave trade

The “Door of No Return” at Cape Coast - a castle used during the slave trade

…but really.

…but really.

Friends and family, meet Rashida! I’m taking her home with me. Sorry mom.

Friends and family, meet Rashida! I’m taking her home with me. Sorry mom.

A truly Ghanian meal - palava sauce, gari, and chicken

A truly Ghanian meal - palava sauce, gari, and chicken